This is our fifth trip to Erta in five years - and I write this on our final day here for this year - and look forward to the next visit already.

Some would say that this indicates a chronic lack of imagination, or worse. But to me, my wife Fiona and two year old daughter Betsy, Erta really is heaven on earth.

We've now stayed in all three of the Erta apartments. We booked Geranio the first year and another two times. It is spacious and cool in the high summer and Varno, the host, set up a cot for Betsy when she was just 10 months.

Fiona and I stayed à deux in the Lavanda apartment in April ? providing very romantic accommodation just for two.

It's the Rosa apartment we stayed in this year for the first time. It has two double bedrooms, both beautifully decorated. It has a wonderful, jasmine covered pergola under which we have sat and drank wine and read ? or just sat and watched visitors come and go!

The relaxed atmosphere is supplied by the Spirelli family ? Rena, Lido, Uncle Varese, Varno and his son Matteo. The family pets Jimmy and Laska also provide daily entertainment for Betsy.

One thing we love is that each year Varno makes small changes that improve the experience for his guests. For example, lighting the way from where the cars are parked, or a handrail down to the wonderful swimming pool. Varno?s wine also gets better and better each year we think.

Another real plus that few other Agriturismos do in the same way, is Varno?s cooking for guests typically three times per week. Two evenings are typically Tuscan, with a fun pizza night on Friday. Even our two year old managed five pieces of different pizzas! You can also buy Erta wine, olive oil, pasta sauces, eggs and jams ? all are wonderful and you just take them from the Cantina and add them to your own bill.

If you want to experience a typical piece of Tuscan magic ? with wonderful views, smells and all things edible - we cannot recommend Erta highly enough.

Thank you Varno for your great company, terrible jokes, delicious food and wine. We look forward to our next trip - dear friend ? when there will be four of us!

Un grand abbraccio

Spencer, Fiona and Betsy Clarke, Gloucestershire, England
1 July 2006